Blog Post #12 The Champlain Canal and into the Lake July 7 - July  15

It took some time to get back our “boat brains” which goes to show it can be dangerous to leave the boat. We set off up the Hudson from Albany, but before we got to Troy I remembered that I had bike covers sent to the marina while we were away, and had forgotten to pick them up from the office. So lunch in Troy and a cab ride back to Albany, so much for my economy in selecting covers. Of course we should have gotten covers long ago when we were in big waves and salt water, but now the hope is we will slow the deterioration and minimize the amount of grease that gets on our clothes, the deck and our lines. 

Interesting bridge at Troy

The next event was the Federal Lock just above Troy, the first of 12 in the Champlain Canal, 64 miles connecting the Hudson with Lake Champlain, of great strategic and economic import in days of yore. This was our first lock since the Dismal Swamp, where the locks were short and sweet. We were out of practice, not quite mentally prepared (see boat brain), and just as we were getting fenders and lines ready, not paying sufficient attention to the weather, a thundershower came through with heavy rain and sudden wind, but it was too late to turn back. Unlike any lock we have been in so far this one didn’t have lines hanging from the sides to grab on to, we needed to put our lines around a pole or ladder to hold the boat to the wall while the lock filled. While I was fumbling with this at the bow the stern swung out and Joel couldn’t reach the wall. With the wind pushing us away we never did get tied but went slowly down the lock sideways while the water rose. The lock keeper, undoubtedly  out of sorts because he had to come out in the middle of a rain storm, was not helpful. Fortunately we were the only ones in the lock. After that we got our act together and we were ready for anything.

By the time we got to Lock One (first of the NY Canal Corporation) it was getting late in the afternoon and it was iffy if we would make Lock Two before closing. The Lock Master very kindly offered to drive up to Lock Two and get us through so we could get the the Mechanicville City Dock for the night, and so we did. 

Approaching Lock #1

Sweet & helpful Lock Master, as most are

Nice facilities, and free!

All of the little towns along the canal are struggling, but they have put a lot of effort into creating attractive waterfronts and welcoming boaters.  Mechanicville has free docking, electricity, water and showers! We shared the space with some lively Canadians from Quebec and Ontario and had a fine time.

The next night’s stop was at the Schuylerville Marina, where the owners of 30 years were as pleasant as can be. Schuylerville has put its development hopes into a growing arts community. Being close to Saratoga and its Revolutionary War battlefield helps too. 

Remnants from busier canal days

Quiet & cozy Schuylerville Marina

Close, but enough

Our next challenge was the fixed bridge between Locks 3 & 4, with a only 17’ clearance. For this we were prepared, having measured the boat height innumerable times, but still not a 100% certain since the water level fluctuates. The lock master cautioned us, he could tell would be close, but slowly slowly we went, with me on top giving moment to moment updates, and in the end we had over a foot to spare.

On to Whitehall, just above the last lock, and its free dock with all the amenities, even free wifi thanks to the library. 

We were the only boat at the Whitehall free dock the first night

The volunteer fire department was training new recruits next to the boat

Here we were visited by Ginger Davis, our Maine neighbor and sailing companion in Croatia. She stopped by on her return trip from the family farm in upstate NY, bearing peaches and preserves, and doughnuts.

So great Ginger could stop by for a visit

In the evening we met up with fellow loopers, Robert & Linda aboard Errant. Actually they finished the loop a few months ago, but since they were a bit rushed through Canada last year, they decided to head north again and visit Quebec City. Linda was intrigued by the various reports about Whitehall being especially depressed economically. Being of a particularly entrepreneurial turn of mind, and looking for a retirement “project” she was asking the question “what would it take to turn this town around?” We ended up accompanying them as they toured a run down, downtown, water view massive building, with a realtor, and having many conversations with various locals about the town’s prospects. Nat, the owner of a very nice restaurant, Historic Grounds, gave us the keys to his car so we could toodle about. Stay tuned to Whitehall's turn around, (although I don’t think Robert was as enthusiastic ).

Robert, a Whitehall realtor, and Linda, on the lookout for opportunity

After two nights of Whitehall’s hospitality, including the hospital chicken barbecue on the water front, we were ready to move on. The canal, lovely though it be, was beginning to feel slightly claustrophobic, and Lake Champlain beckoned.

Lake Champlain, at the narrow south end

Snow Goose, from Fort Ticonderoga

The Fort from our kayak below

Fort Ti sunset from the boat

The Kings Garden, at the Fort. Not part of the original fort, but of the people who restored it.

Fife & drum soldiers at the fort

Lovely dinghy ride up La Chute River to the Town of Ticonderoga. La Chute connects Lake George and Lake Champlain. Lake George connects with the Hudson, so before the canal this was a very important piece of real estate, see French & Indian War, Revolutionary War etc.

We had two quiet nights at anchor under the guns of Fort Ticondaroga  and then up to Fort Henry Marina, the NY side, where we spent one day cleaning the hull from the tannins south of the Chesapeake, and Joel’s numerous other projects. 

The Crown Point Bridge

 We have had hot sunny weather and light winds from the south since leaving Whitehall, but early this morning we woke up with a wind shift from the north and much racket from nearby halyards and wave action. Today is bright, cool and sunny, and winds steady at about 24 mph, so a great day to enjoy the view and get caught up on the blog.

Too windy to travel today, but what a view!

Cheers to all,
Sarah & Joel