Post #15 Oh Canada! Montreal to Ottawa August 16 - August 26

Montreal from bike path

Joel has quite a few family members in Montreal so we didn’t want to miss a chance to see them. The extra special treat was the opportunity to see the family matriarch, Lanscu.

Lanscu, Joel, Sarah & Sinai (age 94), who is living in his own apartment with a wonderful Nepalese man as his care taker

Lanscu lived in Montreal for many many years, but a few years ago she moved to back to Israel to join a long lost love. That story is is another tale, a great love story worthy of novel. But for us, we were just glad she was visiting Montreal while we were coming through. We didn’t see the whole mishpocha but it was great seeing those we did.

Joey, Irving (94), Bobika, Joel, Lanscu, Stanley & Anna. Steve was there too, I missed him somehow.

Sarinka, with Joel's hat, at the Cavendish Mall  (social center for numerous elderly ladies) . She has a very lovely Phillipina  taking good care of her

Brother Nat was waiting for us at the Port Vieux when we returned from dinner in Cote St Luc. We spent the next day wandering Montreal.

Vieux Montreal in the morning with Nat & Joel

We had a great bike trip along the Lachine canal and back along the St. Lawrence shore where we could see the Lachine Rapids, those the canal was built to avoid. Now the canal is strictly for smaller pleasure boats. Parc Canada, again, does a wonderful job making this a very pleasant experience for boaters and bikers alike.

Lachine Canal & bike path

Nat moving the world with a lever. This is lovely sculpture garden at Parc Rene Levesque at the end of the Lachine

We watched surfers in the Lachine rapids, looked dicey to me

Snow Goose is too big for the Lachine, so on leaving Montreal we needed to go where the big shipping boats go, across the river in the canal that makes up the St Lawrence Seaway. There are two locks in this stretch, and pleasure boats are not on their list of priorities (and the lock workers are not nearly as charming). The wait might be as long as three hours to get through. We were lucky and waited only about a half hour, along with a handful of other cruising boats at each lock. Then we were out in the middle of the river, zigzagging across to the north shore and our destination for the day, St Anne de Bellevue.

The wall at St Anne de Bellevue

We docked along the wall which also serves as the town promenade, (included in our seasonal mooring pass) which was lined with open air restaurants, reminiscent of our tie ups in Croatia. Nice town with lots of good places to eat and a grocery store within an easy walk. Again, it was wicked hot, and Nat and I couldn’t help ourselves from taking an outdoor shower off the boat (with bathing suits of course!) We didn’t get too many stares. The town has live free music at one end of the promenade, and there was a nice singer song writer from New Brunswick that we listened to as we ate our pizza at a nearby restaurant.

We had two locks the next day as we started our voyage up the Ottawa River. We were back in the warm and friendly Parcs Canada domain, and these locks have floating docks inside so they are very easy, just tie up and wait. The Carillon Lock was the second, at at 65 feet this is the highest lock in Canada, so very impressive and a major tourist attraction.

Nat, as we go up the Carillion

We stopped at the Golden Anchor Marina in Hawkesburg for the night and ate aboard. A pleasant stop with good showers, working WiFi and a pump out, all the necessities. In the US pump outs are usually free or cheap but in Canada they cost between $15 and $20. Our hypothesis is that Americans need the free incentive to do the right thing, but Canadians would never pump overboard so marinas might as well charge the true cost.

This is just the yacht club at Montebello

We couldn’t pass up Le Chateau Montebello, purportedly the largest log structure in the world and now a fancy Fairmont Hotel and Yacht Club. It was an amazing structure and a great place to bike around, lovely woodland trails and landscaped views, a picturesque woodland chapel and granary.

Part of Montebello structure

We ended up in the town of Montebello, close by, where we had a nice Italian dinner. Nat and I were seduced by the sound of Quebecois music at a nearby pub. Joel headed home, but we stayed until closing. They were fantastic!

Le Diable a 5, Fabulous!

Not a word of English anywhere, but the music was all that was needed. The band members were mostly related each other, including a set of twins, and occasionally members of the older generation in the audience joined in on stage. No CD’s  to be had and I can't find them on social media under this name. They go under another name on Facebook but I lost it, darn it. They are very much in the tradition  of Vent du Nord for those that know this music.

We had planned to make it to the bottom the Ottawa Locks the next day, but in the late afternoon the engine started to overheat. We anchored while Joel descended into the engine room to try to find the raw water intake. He did find it, but couldn’t open it sufficiently, so we pulled into the Kitchissipi Marina for the night. Wonderfully kind and helpful people at the marina, and had we needed professional help for the engine they would have found it for us, even on Sunday morning. Fortunately Joel was able to figure out how to open the drain and clean it of gobs of river mud and shells. It just needed its six month cleaning.

View from the top of the Ottawa Locks

It took us an hour and a half to ascend the eight famous Ottawa Locks. Because was a beautiful Sunday this was a major tourist attraction with lots of questions from kids and adults as we slowly rose to the middle of Ottawa. We tied up along the leafy, lovely wall and after a dock side lunch decided to descend the locks by foot, and catch a water taxi across the river to Hull and the Canadian History Museum.

View from the boat wall, downtown Ottawa

 Who should we meet on the way but friends Betsy and Todd Remage-Healy, formerly of Hallowell, now of Peaks Island.

Betsy and Todd- serendipity!

Betsy and Todd gave Nat a ride to Montreal on Monday morning, and Joel and I stayed on the wall in this most beautiful city.

We had docktails with Leslie and Flint who completed the loop several years ago with a 41’ trawler. These days they live on a 26’ C-Dory, and when its not in the water its behind their truck on a trailer. They go all over the country visiting family and friends. Last summer they did the western National Parks, staying in the boat, at campgrounds, and plopping the boat into water when available - i.e Lake Powell. When they travel they always have network of fellow square dancers to connect with. Leslie has had 2 knee replacements, but she is still dancing at age 70. They spend 6 winter months in Marathon FL, on the boat.

This sculpture is next to the canal, close to the boat. good company

Last 4th of July (this was the week we were back in Maine) we had dinner at Nat & Julie’s and other friends and we spent some time going around the table sharing what the Declaration of Independence meant to us. This was a thoughtful and meaningful exchange. At some point, before we got too serious, Nat made the observation that perhaps it wouldn’t so bad if we had lost to the English, Canada being exhibit A. I must say, there is something to that. This is a very lovely country.

The National Gallery, great exhibits and this is downtown Ottaw

August 26 is our anniversary. We have been married 36 years, and lived together for seven before that. Its been good, and we have so much to be grateful for.

Lake Champlain continued, and on to Montreal July 31 - August 16

Our daughter Hannah joined us in Burlington on the last day of July, fresh from the Newport Folk Festival, spending some time at a friends camp, and a doing some paying work organizing a panel of entrepreneurs in Boston.

Dad & daughter at Revolution. Great vegan food

Joel, the Buddha and Bernie have a moment of meditation while waiting at Revolution

The next day her canoeing companions showed up and we had a chance to vicariously participate in their adventure down the Missisquoi River.

The Missisquoi River

 We signed up for delivery and pick up which allowed us to see some of interior Vermont by car.

Quebec Vermont border at East Richford

Supplies for the week

They put in at East Richford, which is right on the border with Quebec. We watched a serious cyclist try to make Canadian customs by racing past the US customs station and over the bridge, but the sirens went on and the bull horn came out to let him know the Canadian side was closed and that he would have to go six more miles to another crossing- he was not happy, having been 120 miles that day already. The customs house was lovely, it used to be a bustling crossing until the interstates came, now the grass is coming up in the road crack. Between canoes and canoeists getting dropped off, and the flying cyclist, it was probably a pretty exciting day for them

The trippers launched at about 4:45 pm, a bit later than they had planned, but they had great weather and not too far to go for the first day.

Nat petitions the River Gods, while Hannah enumerates the hazards to come

Amazing light on our dock at Lands Landing

Zach's. We couldn't get in for dinner, he only seats14, but we had a nice lunch

Back on the boat we headed back to Valcour Island, and then to Ladd’s Landing Marina for a couple of nights. It is right between North and South Hero Islands. and this is great biking territory, quiet rides, mostly flat, great pastoral vistas and lake views, It is also a very sweet friendly marina. and a delightful stop at a rural cafe with an energetic solo chef.

Six days later we reunited with the minivan and set off to the mouth of the Missisquoi at Lake Champlain to pick up tired but happy campers, who had a great time and against all odds, missed getting rained on the whole time.

Nate, Thalassa, Hannah and Nat who against all odds, missed rain all week

We all had drinks aboard and dinner at the Farm House. This is a terrific bunch. Nate is an animator who lives and works in Portland, part of the up and coming creative economy of Maine.  Thalassa  has spent the last three summers documenting the life of one of the last grave diggers in Maine, which has allowed her to stay with his family and to dig graves with him. This will eventually be part of her MFA from RISD. Nat is working for Hilary Clinton ’s campaign at a national level. He does a lot of integration work among the different divisions of the campaign, including recruiting talent across the board. I feel quite cheered after listening to the insider perspective. Hannah is learning la lot about business in the age of the social  entrepreneurs and enjoying her work as the program manager for Mergelane, an accelerator program for women owed businesses.

Alas our plans to travel to Montreal with Hannah were thwarted as her “expedited” passport never arrived.

Biking the Causeway at Mallets Bay

Got lost walking at Shelburne Farms, but we didn't mind a bit

We also did swings and yoga in Rouses Point

Hannah's sunset kayak cruise

But we enjoyed ourselves in Rouses Point, where we played, Mallets Bay, where we had a great bike ride, and Shelburne Farms with a beautiful walk and tasty lunch. We also met John and Cathy on Serenity who had just completed The Loop and where enjoying the summer at their home port in the Champlain Marina.

When Hannah left so did we, north once more up the Richleau River and the Chambry Canal into the St Lawrence River. The canal is delightful, and very well tended by the friendly and charming staff of Parc Canada, which is exceedingly well run and adequately funded.

Town along the Chambly

Chambly Canal

Hand cranking the lock gates

We had the mooring wall pretty much to ourselves in the sweet town of Chambly. Our seasonal lock and mooring pass covers these tie ups

The last 3 locks of the Chambly pour one into another, three steps into the lake

Mt St Hilaire from the Richleau River

I confess to having been a bit apprehensive of The St Lawrence River, visions of dodging huge container ships in a raging current, and right at the end of the Richleau that looks to be the case.

Looming container ship on the St Lawrence

But on our day of  travel, Sunday, it was lovely, with very few big ships, and tons of speed boats, jet skis, kayaks and tubers. The scenery was pastoral for the most part, much of it undeveloped. The current was another matter, as we knew it would be. We had cruised down the Richleau at 8.5 knots, but we started up the St Lawrence at 7 kts, and it diminished all day, to a low of 1.5 kts as we entered Montreal, with much turbulence and eddies. Fortunately this was for a short stretch and was expected. Once in the marina, right in the middle of Vieux Port, all was calm.

We had plenty of time to watch the rides on Ile de Sainte Helene as we were only going 2 kts

Next up, Visiting with Joel’s Montreal family and welcoming brother Nat aboard.
Cheers and fond regards to all
Sarah & Joel

Post #13 Lake Champlain July 15 - July 31 Friends, Being in Beauty and "the Dream"

From our mooring in Burlington

This could be the most beautiful lake I have spent time on. Until now Lake Atitlan, surrounded by volcanoes in Guatemala, held first place in my heart, but Lake Champlain from a boat continues to amaze. Both lakes have seen their share of bloodshed, but that is another story. 

From the east side there are the wonders of the Adirondacks, from the west side the Green Mountains, and from the middle of the lake you get both.

So many sunsets

Because we had until the second week in August to meet with daughter Hannah, there was plenty of time to tour the lake, spend time with friends, and make new friends. From Port Henry we went to Vergennes, seven miles up Otter Creek.

Heading up Otter Creek to Vergennes

Vergennes waterfalls from our boat on the dock

The town provides free docks complete with electricity and water for those who get there early. They light the waterfalls at night.We had a fine time with Olivier and Josee from Montreal who keep their sailboat on the Lake and drive down from the city.

Friends Josee and Olivier, their boat is in back

Uptown Vergennes, nice shops, pretty banners

We discovered the Laundry, a incredible French as in the the owner is actually from France) cafe & bakery. I had a great bike ride through the country side and a yoga class at Two Wolves Studio.

The Laundry. Food amazing here

Joel sailing our dingy, now the Eli!

Lovely biking loop near Vergennes

Nancy Storrow and Bob Nassau, from Putney Vt are our oldest friends - Nancy and I met while I was in my teens, working as a life model in an art class where Nancy was a student.  Fifty years later she is still an artist, a very good one, and I am no longer, surprise, modeling.

Bob & Nancy adjusting to life aboard

We picked them up in Burlington mid day, knowing that some storms were on their way out of the west, but thinking we could get into the lee on the western shore of Willsboro Bay before they hit. This was a bit of a miscalculation as the storm caught us a mile outside the bay, and it was ferocious.

 Just before it got really "exciting"

Visibility vanished, wind way up, and a heavy curtains of rain. Not exactly an ideal introduction to the boating life. But our captain was calm, and the storm blessedly brief, although it felt pretty long at the time. By the time we anchored at the bottom of the bay, the sun was out and the skies blue, and no mutiny.

After the storm in Willsboro Bay

The next day we headed north to Valcour Island, site of one of the first battles of the Revolutionary War where Benedict Arnold, significantly out gunned by the British, managed to at least slow them down. Valcour is now part of the Adirondack Park. It has great boat access, a harbor for every wind direction, some minimal trails and primitive camp sites.

Valcour Island- Spoon Bay

Valcour

There was kayaking, rowing, bushwhacking, and delicious beef stew aboard, then lunch at the Bayside Restaurant in Mallets Bay and back to Burlington, a short, but great visit.

quiet shores

Elizabeth and John Reuthe from Vassalboro, who are always up for anything adventurous, joined us next. We couldn’t resist returning to Valcour  to sample another harbor.

Elizabeth, John & Joel on Valcour

On Valcour with young Elias who enchanted us all. His parents are Germans who live in LA

John at the helm, I think he likes it.

Anchored in Shelburne Bay where we hiked into town for dinner at the Bearded Frog, a beautiful evening but warm and buggy. Most grateful for the Green Taxi  which returned us to our dingy. 

Vergennes was the perfect spot to avoid predicted winds and rain. We arrived mid day to assure a spot on the dock, with shade and electricity. But hot, hot hot with lots of humidity. Tried the AC with limited success, kept blowing fuses so we retired with fans at full bore. More good food at the Laundry, and a bit of shopping  the next day as we waited out the weather until the afternoon when we had a lovely trip back to Burlington and more great eating, in great company. 

Exiting Otter Creek, back into the Lake

Burlington is  pretty close to a perfect city. We met other loopers at the Burlington Boat House Marina, who just parked their boat here for the season. Not a bad idea. There is a free shuttle that takes you up and down the hill, wonderful restaurants, great library, fabulous bike trails, immigrants from far afield etc

Saturday Farmers Market

Downward Dog on SUP, this is Burlington of course

We reunited with Olivier and Josee in Burlington

Poems to order at the Burlington Farmers Market

I requested a poem about boating on the lake with friends. I did say we had a power boat, but poetic license requires sails. Pretty good for a 10 minute poem, and Benjamin says they can even make a living this way.You pay what you want for each poem.

As we greet every day of this amazing idyll we are living with gratitude, I am mindful that this a dream. I am reading Ta-Nehisi Coates Between the World and Me. He exposes the "dream"(American dream) of "people who believe they are white" and the very "other" experience of life that black people in this country have.  How do we, "people who believe they are white" internalize what he is saying so that we really get it? Because until we do the change that needs to happen won't. So much work to be done. Read the book.

From Smugglers Bay, Valcour

Love to you all, and thanks  for your good wishes and kind words
Sarah & Joel